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Guide

A Wood-to-Soil Contact Checklist for Fremont Homes

A room-by-room and yard-by-yard checklist for wood in contact with soil in Fremont homes, based on UC ANR’s point about subterranean termites.

Illustration for the guide "A Wood-to-Soil Contact Checklist for Fremont Homes" (Fremont, CA)
Short answer

UC ANR says subterranean termites infest wood in contact with soil. This checklist walks a Fremont yard and house, item by item, to find every piece of wood that touches the ground or a soil-filled edge, and sets out the clearing and lifting each one may need.

Key takeaways

  • Wood in contact with soil is the route UC ANR names for subterranean termites.
  • Walk the yard first, marking each steps, post, fence and planter contact.
  • Check the garage, the porch and the crawl space or slab edge next.
  • Clear soil and mulch back from wood, and lift wood onto a support where it touches the soil.
  • Check the drainage under each lifted contact after heavy rain.
  • Keep a dated list, and repeat the walk each season.

Step 1: Walk the yard and mark the contacts

Start at the front gate and walk the yard in one direction, marking each piece of wood that touches the soil, a soil-filled edge or a concrete edge with soil against it.

Look at the steps, the fence posts, the gate posts, the planter edges, the stacks of wood and any shed or stand that rests on the ground. Mark each one with a stake or a piece of tape, and note the height of the wood above the soil.

Check the back of the house and the side passages with the same care. The back fence and the side gate are often missed, but they are common contacts and common routes.

Step 2: Check the house from the outside

Walk the outside of the house and mark the places where wood meets the soil: the porch posts, the step stringers, the deck posts, the rim of any raised bed, and any siding that sits low on the wall.

The porch and the steps are the first to check. A post set in the soil, or a stringer that rests on the ground, is a contact that should be lifted onto a support above the grade.

The siding at the foundation is checked for soil or mulch piled above it. Soil above the lowest course of siding bridges the gap between the soil and the wood, and it is cleared back below the siding.

Step 3: Check the garage, the crawl space and the slab edge

The garage and the crawl space or slab edge are the inside contacts. Check the sill, the first framing, the garage wall where it meets the soil, and the slab edge for soil built up against it.

In a crawl space, check the sill and the joists where they rest on the foundation. A piece of wood that touches the soil in the crawl space is a contact even if it is not visible from the house.

On a slab house, the slab edge is the place where the soil meets the building. Check the edge for soil and for any wood trim that touches it.

Step 4: Clear and lift

Clear soil and mulch back from the wood to leave a clear gap below it. Lift the wood onto a concrete or metal support where it rests on the ground, and replace any section that has softened.

A step is lifted onto a bracket or a masonry base above the grade. A post is set on a concrete pier or a metal post base, and the wood is fixed to the base without touching the soil.

A soft or decayed section is replaced with wood of a grade suited to ground contact, and the replacement is checked for fixing and clearance. The report notes the material used.

Step 5: Check the drainage under each contact

A lifted contact with water pooling under it is still a moisture point. Check the ground under each lifted post and step after heavy rain, and add a small regrade or a gravel bed where water collects.

Water under a lifted timber keeps the soil damp below the wood, and that is the condition in which the contact can return. A gravel bed or a small regrade lets the water run away from the support.

The downspouts and the grade on each side of the house are checked at the same time, so that water is moved away from the foundation and the wood beside it.

Step 6: Keep a dated list and repeat it

Write down each contact, its fix and its date, and repeat the walk each season. Soil and mulch drift back over time, so the list is what keeps the correction working.

A short list in the house file, with a photo of each contact before and after the fix, lets the next season start from a known position. The homeowner can see at a glance which contacts need attention.

A seasonal walk in late summer and after the first heavy rain is enough for most houses. A contact that has been covered again by mulch or soil is cleared, and the list is updated.

Step 7: Keep the yard in the state the list describes

A list is only useful if the yard stays in the state it describes. Keep the mulch below the siding, keep the planter edges clear of soil and keep the stacked wood away from the house.

Mulch is the most common reason a clearance closes up. A layer that was kept below the siding in spring can be pushed back up by the summer’s top-dressing. Rake it back when the list says to, and keep a clear strip of bare soil or gravel at the wall.

Stacked firewood should sit on a rack away from the house, with a gap between the stack and the wall. A stack that is moved back against the wall in the winter is one of the most common contacts the walk finds.

Common mistakes in a Fremont yard

The most common mistakes are leaving a step on the soil, building a planter with a wood edge against the house, stacking firewood against the wall and letting a fence post sit in the ground beside the house.

A step that was placed for convenience and never lifted is a contact for years. A planter whose wood edge holds soil against the house does the same. Each is simple to fix once it is on the list.

A fence post sitting in soil at the corner of the house is easy to forget. Check it when the fence is walked, and lift or clear it at the same time.

When to call for help

Call for help when a post is carrying load and must be lifted, when a deck is involved, or when wood has softened beyond a simple repair. A contractor or a technician can carry out the work to the standard the structure needs.

A deck post set in soil is a structural member, and lifting it needs a plan so the deck does not move. A softened joist or sill is a repair that affects the structure, and the homeowner should not attempt it alone.

The report from a pest visit names the work and recommends who should carry it out. The homeowner keeps that recommendation with the list, so the work is done by the right person.

Working with a neighbour on a shared line

Where a contact or a route crosses a shared fence, the work is planned with the neighbour. The walk records the position on the homeowner’s side, and the homeowner decides how to raise it.

A planter or a fence post on the shared line can hold soil against the neighbour’s wood. The homeowner and the neighbour may agree to lift or clear the contact together, and the report gives the position of each item so both can see it.

A shared line is not a reason to leave a contact in place. The report records it, and the homeowner can raise the matter in writing, with the position and the photograph.

A checklist for a rental or a new owner

A tenant or a new owner should run the same checklist on arrival, and record what is found in the house file. The first record is the baseline the rest of the years are measured against.

On arrival, the walk takes the same route as the checklist, marking each contact and each clearance. The date and the photos go into the file, and any contact that needs a repair is raised with the owner in writing.

A new owner who keeps the checklist has a record the next buyer or renter can use. The record shows what was done, when and by whom, which is the information a later inspector will ask for.

Keeping a clearance on a slope or near a wall

On a sloping lot, a clearance can close quickly as soil moves downhill. Check each clearance from the lower side, where the soil is most likely to build up against the wood.

A clearance on the downhill side is the one that closes first, because the soil moves toward it. The check uses a rake and a spade to keep a clear gap, and the list records the position of each clearance.

A clearance near a wall should leave air between the soil and the wood. The gap is kept open by a gravel bed where the soil is inclined to move back, and the list records the gravel.

Frequently asked questions

Why does soil contact matter so much?

UC ANR says subterranean termites infest wood in soil contact, so the contact gives them a direct route into the wood. Lifting or clearing the contact removes that route.

Can I do all of this myself?

Clearing soil and raising a planter edge are simple tasks. Structural lifting of a deck or a porch should be done by someone qualified, and the report recommends it where needed.

Does this replace an inspection?

No. The checklist removes the contacts that can be seen. An inspection checks the wood and the foundation for activity, and both are useful.

How often should I repeat the walk?

Once a season is a sensible minimum, and once after any heavy rain. The list tells you what to look for on each walk.

What is the cheapest step with the most effect?

Clearing soil and mulch back from the wood and moving stacked firewood off the wall are usually the least costly steps with the largest effect on the contact.

Does a gravel bed count as a clearance?

Yes, when it keeps the soil below the wood and lets water drain. The bed is recorded on the list with its depth and its position.

Sources

  1. UC Agriculture and Natural Resources, article on termites in California (ucanr.edu)

This guide is general information for Alameda County homeowners, not a substitute for an on-site inspection. Prices are estimates. See our disclaimer.

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